Municipality 5: Essen am Tegernsee | Gmund

„"Without Gmund, there's no Tegernsee," at least that's how it is for Munich residents who want to visit the lake and spend their free time there. The village of Gmund lies at the source of the Mangfall River, and anyone approaching the lake from the north is immediately struck by Gmund's idyllic, rural atmosphere with its venerable farmsteads, rolling hills, and fragrant meadows. Cows, goats, and even llamas graze in the fields and meadows that are part of rural Gmund. There are also farms offering family vacations, lakeside beaches for cooling off in the summer, sailing and surfing schools, and famous long-distance cycling routes that pass through Gmund. It's no surprise, then, that there's plenty to do in terms of food, and that's exactly what I'm going to check out now.

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Apricot dumplings from the Jennerwein inn. Mmm!

Stations 1 and 2: Dürnbecker and Gasthaus Jennerwein

Since the beginning of April this year, the Dürnbecker To Gmund. "Dürnbecker" comes from Dürnbach, the name of the district where Doreen Dietel's newly opened establishment is located. Once you understand her design concept and the idea behind it, Dürnbecker is fantastic. Inside the café-restaurant, which boasts a large terrace (seating for 100 people), you'll find yourself standing before an alpine pasture. – Huh? What? An alpine pasture? – Yes, exactly! The café has been furnished, renovated, and expanded in such a way that guests feel like they're standing in front of an alpine "indoor alpine hut," complete with an outdoor seating area. Fittingly, a panorama of the Tegernsee mountains adorns the large wall to the right, with cozy tables and benches arranged in front of it. Behind the bar, painted windows offer a glimpse into a graphically designed hay barn, and everywhere else, there are thoughtful details that enhance the alpine atmosphere. This attention to detail extends to the menu and cuisine at Dürnbecker as well. It starts with the D-shaped pretzels made from two different types of dough (lye and spelt) or the homemade cakes, and continues with the exceptionally large selection of fresh lemonades, drinks, and spritz variations, all of which contain exclusively natural ingredients and no artificial syrups. Dietel's thoughtful collaboration with local suppliers and farmers continues this approach. The cheese comes from the Obermoser organic dairy farm, the eggs from the Finsterwald farm, and the meat from the butcher next door, which is provided to the Dürnbecker on request whenever a guest wants meat. During my visit, my companion and I opted for a "mixed breakfast." The menu offers a variety of breakfast options, such as the "Morning Dew," which includes a bread roll with honey (from the Tölz region) and homemade jam, along with a cup of tea of your choice for €6.90. A "Beauty Queen in the Dürnbecker Alm" bowl (€15.20) is also available. This bowl features warm banana and oatmeal with chia seeds, natural yogurt, fresh seasonal fruit, coconut flakes, mixed nuts, and healthy toppings. Numerous extras allow you to customize your breakfast to your liking. The rest of the menu – including a daily changing specials menu with dishes starting at around €12 – is quite impressive. Our mixed breakfast with cheese, ham, egg, raw vegetables, dip, and some fruit was simple but good. There was nothing to complain about, and Dürnbecker proves that you can indeed impress with "uncomplicated" food and cuisine made from good ingredients. The two spritzers with rosemary and cucumber were just as refreshing as we'd hoped and absolutely delicious. Anyone wanting to experience Dürnbecker should either take advantage of one of the numerous (musical) events held there or spend a Sunday there – relaxing in a beach chair or deckchair included.

The K1411 bar at Gut Kaltenbrunn

„"After breakfast comes lunch," is the motto, and we headed to Gasthaus Jennerwein relatively soon after. Undoubtedly my favorite and one of the best stops on my culinary tour. Schorsch Weber is the chef, and his cooking is so delicious you'll want to take him home with you. We started with a small amuse-bouche, a simplified version of the "Tapas Brettl" from the appetizer menu, featuring salami, ham, olives, Parmesan, butter, and herb quark, along with a mixed bread basket. It was clear from the start that this was going to be good. Then we moved on to the appetizers. We ordered one to share, as it was clear from the beginning that after the main course we absolutely had to have the apricot dumplings with sweet breadcrumb butter and vanilla ice cream (for €9.90) (...just reading about it makes my mouth water again...). My companion and I chose the "Melted Goat's Cheese with Bell Pepper Tapenade, Caper Berries, and Arugula-Radicchio Salad" (for €11.90). The salad was perfectly dressed, the two small pieces of goat's cheese melted to just the right consistency, and the tapenade combined with both was a delight. The plate was empty far too quickly, and we gladly skipped the break while we waited for our "Braised Ox Cheek with Pappardelle & Glazed Root Vegetables" (for €22.90) and the "Ricotta Ravioli in Brown Butter with Shaved Parmesan & Arugula-Radicchio Salad" (for €15.90).

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Absolutely delicious: The main course at the Jennerwein inn.

When the plate with the meat and the rich, dark jus was placed in front of my companion, such a delicious aroma wafted over that I almost forgot about my ravioli. But only until I tasted the first one, which melted away just like the butter on the side of pappardelle. I savored every single ravioli, and not a single bite of the roast cheek and pappardelle that found its way to me was left either. You can't leave food this good untouched, no matter how full you feel. We applied the same principle to the aforementioned dessert, the apricot dumplings. They were incredibly delicate, and for a moment I caught myself thinking I should have ordered my own portion, even though I generally love to share (…well, except for food. ;-)). Finally, there was a mini Bundt cake, and even that was definitely a labor of love, not just a mix of flour, eggs, and the like. I will definitely return to the Gasthaus Jennerwein, with its traditional Bavarian charm and secluded terrace. In other words, I would even come here from Munich for lunch or dinner. Two thumbs up, even if it is a bit noisy outside.

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The drinks at the K1411 bar.

Stations 3 and 4: K1411 Bar (Gut Kaltenbrunn) and Gasthof Herzog Maximilian

The third stop was somewhat new, but not entirely new to me: the K1411 Bar at Gut Kaltenbrunn. I've often dined at the main restaurant and enjoyed an aperitif on the lake-view terrace. Now there's the small K1411 Bar located below. Gut Kaltenbrunn is part of the Käfer group, but the bar is separate; reservations for tables on the cozy terrace or inside should be made directly at the terrace (not at Gut Kaltenbrunn itself). The small and very inviting bar, with its modern atmosphere, serves creative drinks, paninis (from €4.50), two different cakes on weekends, and a small evening menu (from 6 pm) featuring steak tartare, Obazda (a Bavarian cheese spread), sausage salad, and pretzels (from €6.50). For those wondering about the name, I can explain: Gut Kaltenbrunn, and consequently the bar, takes its name from a farming family from Kaltenpronn who moved there in 1411. For several years, they farmed the land on which the Kaltenbrunn estate, including the bar, is now located.

One of the main dishes at the Herzog Maximilian

From sparkling wines and drinks, various rums, gins, vodkas, whiskies, and whiskeys, to spirit-based mixed cocktails, non-alcoholic drinks, and classic cocktails, as well as bitters, sours, and liqueurs, the drinks menu is impressive. White wines, red wines, and rosés are also available by the glass or bottle. Soft drinks, beer, and coffee specialties can also be ordered. My companion and I tried four different drinks. I opted for the non-alcoholic "True Blue" (because of the car parked in front of the bar) with lavender, frizzante, lime, and orange (for 7 euros). My companion and I toasted with a Negroni made with Beefeater Gin, Campari, and Anica Formula (€9.50), a Lillet Vive with Lillet and Thomas Henry Tonic (€7), and a non-alcoholic Kombucha Fruit Punch with Carpe Diem Kombucha Classic, apple juice, elderflower, and lime (€6). The drinks looked impressive in their different glasses and were well-mixed – only the Negroni was a bit too strong and was left half empty. Inside, it's cozy, with low benches, lots of wood – some of it used as partitions for seating areas – and stylishly coordinated decor (surf husks, bookshelves, light colors, etc.) creating a welcoming atmosphere. The music is quite hip, and the view of the lake is just as stunning as the one-floor terrace above. This bar will definitely be on my radar for when I simply fancy a delicious drink and want to enjoy the view.

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The selected appetizers at Herzog Maximilian

My last culinary stop on the 5th day was the Gasthof Herzog Maximilian, one of the newest openings on Lake Tegernsee. They serve classic Bavarian cuisine from a concise but well-organized menu. In addition, there are seasonal suggestions (currently asparagus prepared in various ways, from €14.50) displayed on clips on the sturdy wooden tables. The ambiance is as classically Bavarian – with divided seating terraces, wood paneling, murals, and soaring stucco ceilings – as the menu itself. It's certainly cozy, but unfortunately also very loud, too loud for normal conversation. The children's menu includes six dishes, and the appetizer section has five, of which we selected three to try: "Beef consommé with three different garnishes (semolina dumplings, pancakes, and cheese dumplings)" (for €5.90); "Asparagus salad with chopped egg, pink-roasted roast beef, and baguette" (for €12.50) and "Smoked salmon with potato pancakes, mixed greens, and mustard-dill sauce" (for €11.50). As a fourth treat to start, there was also Obazda (a Bavarian cheese spread) with onion rings and a pretzel from the "Brotzeit" (snack) category (for €6.50). Those who enjoy a "Brotzeit" will find a whole page of classics such as sausage salad, homemade goulash soup, South Tyrolean speck platter, warm Leberkäse (a type of meatloaf), Weisswurst (white sausage), and more, starting at €5.90. The main courses cover 1.5 pages, starting at €8.90 (with "orecchiette, asparagus ragout, and tomato") and going up to €22.50 (for a roast beef with onions, speck and green beans, and Rösti). I looked at the steak menu (steaks from €13.90 for a 180-gram sirloin steak with dip), but opted for something else: "Wiener Schnitzel with rosemary potatoes" instead of fries (for €19.80). My companions chose the "Oven-fresh roast pork with crackling, wood-barrel beer sauce, potato dumplings, and coleslaw" (small €9.80 / large €11.50); "Beef steak with arugula, tomatoes, Parmesan, and baguette" (for €14.90); and "Braised beef with glazed root vegetables and pretzel dumpling slices" (for €14.50). We decided to skip dessert; the options were classic and simple: crème brûlée, chocolate mousse, or apple strudel (from €4.20).

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Dürnbeck pretzels. Delicious!

I thoroughly enjoyed all the appetizers. I'm not usually a fan of potato pancakes, and I rarely combine salmon and potatoes in that way, but I liked the interpretation of the individual dishes at the Gasthof Herzog Maximilian. I wasn't so keen on the appearance of my schnitzel, which definitely looked rather unappealing (a bit too dark, no nice breading or presentation) on my plate. I was rather skeptical before the first bite, but afterward, my main course clearly emerged as the best at the entire table. Unfortunately, this was partly due to the fact that my companion's roast pork was only mediocre (…the piece of meat I tasted was good…) and the pretzel dumpling slices from the beef main course were very dry. The bistecca was excellent. If I had to pick the top three dishes at the table, they would be the Obatzda (Bavarian cheese spread), the soup as a starter, and the Wiener Schnitzel. The asparagus salad was also something special and, in my opinion, very delicious. In summer, a cozy terrace under large umbrellas beckons – just like inside, with friendly and attentive service. I would come back if I wanted something simple, uncomplicated, and classically Bavarian. But I wouldn't make a special trip to Tegernsee for that.

This is what it looks like at the Jennerwein Inn

Other restaurants in Gmund

If you'd like to explore all the dining options in Gmund, you can, of course, do so on the Tegernsee Valley Tourism website. The Alte Schmiede, the Kapler Alm, Café Wagner, and the Italian restaurant Luna Rossa are just a few of Gmund's culinary destinations. You can find more here. here.

Final summary and "What's next?":

Don't worry – it's not over yet. I have a little surprise in store for you, because I'm going to the Relais & Châteaux "Egerner Höfe" to see Thomas Kellermann. He's been cooking there since June 2018, and I get to sample his excellent cuisine (…which I already know in a different form from his previous job…) right on Lake Tegernsee.

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One can only be happy in that situation, right?

Regarding the restaurants I sampled during my five-day stay at Lake Tegernsee, I can say without a doubt: it's well worth coming here to eat. My favorites were Schusters in Bad Wiessee for breakfast; Café Gäuwagerl for its idyllic location and delicious cakes. I would definitely visit Fährhütte 14 again for its location and cuisine, as well as Haubentaucher in Rottach-Egern. For sweet treats, I also highly recommend the charming little Confiserie Hagn, also in Rottach-Egern. For drinks, I would always go back to Sassa Bar – for the view, the ambiance, and the tapas. My number one spot, as mentioned, is Gasthaus Jennerwein. Warmth, friendly service, pleasant people, and well-thought-out concepts were features I encountered almost everywhere. Price-wise, I would say Lake Tegernsee and Munich are roughly on the same level. Pack your wallet, sunglasses, and appetite, and do what I do: Let's go to Lake Tegernsee!

+++ This article was created in cooperation with Tegernsee Valley Tourism GmbH. Thank you! +++

Contact for inquiries

Tegernsee Valley Tourism – Learn everything about Lake Tegernsee | Phone: +49 8022 927380

Gmund:
1. Dürnbecker | Miesbacher Str. 5A, 83703 Gmund am Tegernsee |
Telephone: 08022 6734747 | Open: daily from 9:00 AM to 10:00 PM;
Open 1 hour earlier on Sundays
2. Jennerwein Inn |Münchner Str. 127, 83703 Gmund am Tegernsee |
Tel.: 08022 706050 | Open: Mon./Thu./Fri. from 11:00 a.m. to 2:00 p.m. and from 5:00 p.m. to midnight;
Saturday and Sunday from 11:00 AM to 12:00 AM
3. K1411 Bar (at Gut Kaltenbrunn) | Kaltenbrunner Str. 1, 83703 Gmund am Tegernsee |
Tel.: 08022 109870700 | Open: Wednesday – Saturday from 6:00 PM – 2:00 AM
4. Herzog Maximilian Inn |Tegernseer Str. 3, 83703 Gmund am Tegernsee |
Tel.: 08022 7059377 | Open: Thursday – Tuesday from 10:30 am – 11:00 pm