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Trump or Critical | Inn with Bar Schwabing has just gotten a whole lot richer, and I'm sure you'll agree once you've set foot in the pub and bar that opened in early December 2015 – which I hope will be very soon. Of course, I couldn't resist and recently stopped by myself to try out Trumpf oder Kritisch. I'm thrilled, and now I want to tell you all about it – so here goes:

In what I consider a unique atmosphere, the five experienced founders of this young Bavarian inn have created a place that makes the heart of every true Bavarian and bar enthusiast beat faster. At the same time, they have created Schwabing's new hotspot for young and old alike, offering creative drinks, delicious Bavarian dishes and snacks, a cool Augustiner on tap, or a round of Watten with friends – namely, an inn with a bar all in one.

Ambivalence and flair in the "Trumpf oder Kritisch"„

Think you know enough about pubs? Think again! Don't picture a classic Bavarian pub – in terms of decor, atmosphere, menu, and ambiance. While the creatively designed menu, presented in a newspaper style, features dishes like roast pork with dumplings, Obatzda (a Bavarian cheese spread), and cheese platters, the moment you step into Trumpf oder Kritisch, the cozy bar atmosphere is immediately apparent. A glance through the windows at the expertly curated interior, courtesy of Michael Faltenbacher, makes it clear you've arrived at a unique "pub bar" with a young and modern concept: long wooden tables seating up to 12 people, where friends, acquaintances, and even (as yet) strangers can gather; creative antler lamps; colorful wall paintings and wooden lettering adorn the partially dark green walls; a dominant wooden bar at the heart of the pub, glass windows, dark parquet flooring, and simply a perfectly harmonious overall impression. I definitely felt comfortable right away. It wasn't too loud or crowded, and although it was packed and every seat was taken, it was very cozy.

Food and drink, or also "roast pork and 'Schorsch at the lake'"„

But you don't forget that you're in a Bavarian inn, because here the beer bell is rung regularly, and—quite traditionally and especially—they serve freshly tapped Augustiner from a 30-liter wooden barrel—a true rarity in Munich and the inn's clear signature dish. Of course, besides a proper beer, my companion and I also had something delicious to eat. We opted for the roast pork with dumplings, red cabbage, and dark beer gravy (€12.50), a cheese board from the Tegernsee natural cheese dairy with bread (€13.50), and the warm chocolate cake with mint pesto and vanilla ice cream (€6). To start, we had a delicious chestnut soup (€5) to warm us up.

The focus at Trumpf oder Kritisch is on creative cocktails and drinks, such as the "Schorsch am Lago" with fruit brandy, Campari, orange and lemon juice, and sugar (€8.50), or the "Bavarian Mule" (€10), which I bravely ordered. This one is mixed with Duke Gin, horseradish, spicy ginger, radish, and cucumber. (Let me tell you, it packs a punch. You should probably take a taxi afterward or bring a driver. ;-)). Of course, they also serve snacks and hot dishes throughout the day, or until about 10:00 PM on weekdays, and cold dishes until 11:00 PM. You can choose from the regular menu and an additional seasonal menu, which together offer around 15-18 different dishes. Regarding our choices: The roast pork was excellent, the portion was generous, the dumplings were exactly as you'd expect from a Munich resident (which isn't something all restaurants can manage, as you might think), and everything was just right. My Tegernsee cheese platter exceeded all my expectations and boasted (!) four different cheeses, fresh bread, grapes, nuts, and butter. I can also recommend the appetizer and dessert – both from the additional, handwritten menu on the wall – because even the chocolate cake will make you realize you've landed in a special place. Let yourself be surprised. So definitely try three or four dishes from the menu with your friends or family and order one of the many cocktails. (For example, the Obatzda with pretzels and the dumplings with creamed mushrooms were brought past me – both visually approved ;-)).

Online you can view both the food menu and the extensive drinks menu. Besides the aforementioned "Schorsch am Lago" and my mood-boosting "Bavarian Mule," numerous other cocktails (all priced between €8.50 and €10), long drinks, gins, vodkas, wines, shots, brandies, rum, tequila, spritzes, and more await you. Of course, there are also plenty of non-alcoholic options for those who prefer to abstain. Dishes range in price from €6.50 to €19.80, and for that price, you can treat yourself to Bavarian young bull tartare with traditional Munich farmhouse bread. The seasonal and additional menu displayed on the wall changes regularly, ensuring a good selection – including vegetarian options.

Card games, hard facts and more

Of course, I absolutely mustn't leave out the card games offered here. And by now, the name should ring a bell. So, what game do you think they play here? Exactly! Watten. That's where the name of the pub, "Trumpf oder Kritisch" (Trump or Critical), comes from. "But I don't have any cards with me!" isn't an excuse here, as the friendly staff will gladly provide you with cards upon request. Even if you're not familiar with Watten, you can simply consult the menu or newspaper. The rules are explained in easy-to-understand language – even for complete beginners. In the evenings – around 10:00 PM and after numerous card games – things can get a bit louder, the lights are dimmed, and a bit of a party atmosphere takes hold at Trumpf oder Kritisch. You can still have a normal conversation at any time, and it remains an interesting experience for the partygoers.

At the lively bar, in addition to the packed restaurant, around 40 people often enjoy a fine draft beer, a creative cocktail, or a Bavarian snack. The restaurant itself seats approximately 100-105 people, depending on elbow room. ;-). If you're coming with a larger group or want to guarantee a table, reservations are essential. Even then, it's intentional and quite common at Trumpf or Kritisch that you might share a long table with strangers – but we Munich locals are a sociable bunch. The aim here is simply to offer a cozy tavern for chatting, eating, drinking, and playing cards, presented in a fresh and reinterpreted way, without the classic Bavarian clichés like waiters in traditional dress, checkered tablecloths, and leather-bound menus – and it succeeds admirably.

Trumpf or Kritisch is open daily from 5:00 PM until late, but usually until around 1:00 AM on weekdays. On Fridays and Saturdays, it can easily stay open later. You can also rent the pub, or parts of it, for company parties, birthdays, weddings, or other events. Just get in touch with the guys.

My personal conclusion

If you love Bavarian cuisine, like Schwabing, enjoy a drink, and can hold your liquor, then I could imagine Trumpf oder Kritisch becoming your new second living room. You immediately feel at home here. This is probably because you're greeted warmly and shown to your table, the food is delicious, and the drinks range from traditional Bavarian to young and creative, all the way to "I can't even remember what I drank." 🙂 The clientele is a diverse mix, with both young and older guests comfortably lingering for hours. Despite its central location, the prices are reasonable, and as I left, I honestly thought (along with "Why is everything spinning?") "See you soon!" (Pardon!: "See you Boid!"). So, if the question "Trumpf oder Kritisch" were to be taken literally, my answer as a restaurant critic would be obvious: A clear Trumpf. ...and don't forget the chocolate cake.

Tested location: Trump or Critical
Address: Feilitzschstraße 14, 80802 Munich
Website

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