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BROEDING | 11 of 14 | “Weinviertel in your neighborhood“

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+++ Advertisement: This post was created in cooperation with Culinarium Bavaricum and Weinviertel DAC. Thank you! +++

Weinviertel_DAC_4C_<40mmBroeding | Weinviertel in your neighborhood | Restaurant number 11 of 14 – I recently reviewed the 11th restaurant (Broeding) out of a total of 14. This is still part of the Munich campaign "Weinviertel in Your Neighborhood," which runs until the end of the month and includes 14 fantastic Munich restaurants. In June, each of these restaurants will be serving excellent wines from the Weinviertel – Austria's largest wine-growing region – by the glass and exclusively.Learn moreThis time, however, I went to Broeding in Neuhausen, a place that is popular far beyond the borders of Munich.I have already tested the following as part of this campaign: Blue Buck, Halali, essence, Freisinger Hof, Restaurant Bavarian National Museum (bnm), Österia, Landersdorfer and Innerhofer, Restaurant Ebert, Inn at Bavariapark, Little Wolf.I'd like to tell you more about it now.


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Baked veal tongue with lentils and wild herb salad

The Broeding Restaurant

I probably don't need to explain Broeding in any detail, because practically every Munich resident who enjoys good wine and delicious food knows that Broeding is the place to go. After my visit, including the set menu and wine tasting, I can wholeheartedly confirm this. Superbly warm, professional, and relaxed service, top-notch wine expertise, fantastic cuisine, a cozy ambiance, and an all-around wonderful atmosphere are just a few of the positive aspects I'd like to mention at the outset. The restaurant, now open for 26 years, is run by Gottfried Wallsich and Manuel Reheis, has a kitchen and service team that has been together for years, and three in-house sommeliers. During my visit to Broeding, I was looked after by head sommelier and wine expert Andreas Röhrich. I tasted various wines from the Weinviertel region and a fantastic set menu, because Broeding doesn't have a standard menu and only offers set menus, never à la carte. A new menu is offered every day – always varied, creative, and prepared in such a way that all ingredients, for example, from the venison, are used whenever possible. At Broeding, the responsible and thoughtful use of ingredients is just as important as a wide range of dishes. Vegetarians, vegans, those with allergies, and others are also very well catered for. The daily menu isn't finalized – even for the Broeding team – until around 3:30 or 4:00 pm on the day itself. So, anyone who wants to indulge in a culinary experience at Broeding should be open to some surprises. (Individual requests, allergies, etc., are of course accommodated.) A small wine list and the aforementioned daily menu are available on-site.

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The Broeding from the inside

During my visit, the menu included baked veal tongue with lentils, pickled radishes, celery and nettle purée, and wild herb salad; turnip soup, mushrooms, and turnip greens pesto; poached cod with pointed cabbage; Hereford beef entrecôte with beans and quark spaetzle; aged Brie with fig chutney; and to finish, a mascarpone mousse with nut cake, roasted almonds, southern French apricots, and berries. Sounds delicious, doesn't it? It was! The ingredients are purchased fresh daily – sometimes at the Munich wholesale market and at local markets. Fresh bread comes from La Parisienne (focaccia and spiced bread are occasionally baked in-house), and meat and game are supplied by the Poltinger butcher shop.

A three- or five-course dinner menu is offered daily from 6:00 PM to 8:00 PM. The three-course menu (starter, main course, dessert) typically costs €42, the five-course menu €69, and the six-course menu €76. Those who enjoy tasting menus can opt for €45 (five courses) or €49 (six courses), including water. Broeding boasts an extensive and diverse wine selection. Wines from Austria, Hungary, and Franconia are always available. Wines from the Weinviertel region are also consistently featured on Broeding's bottled wine list.

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Ox leg with spaetzle, beans and chanterelles

Food and wines at Broeding – selection and review

For me, the amuse-bouche I was served—an Asian-inspired combination of yellow beets with free-range chicken, wasabi seeds, and sprouts—was accompanied by a glass of Grüner Veltliner Hermmanschachern (from the Ebner-Ebenauer winery) in the Weinviertel region. This winemaking couple has been among the best in the Weinviertel since 2007, known for their distinctive, characteristic, and high-quality wines. The grape varieties for their wines are optimally adapted to the vineyard sites, traditionally vinified, and bring out the terroir and varietal character particularly well. I thoroughly enjoyed the first Ebner-Ebenauer wine I tasted, with its fine mineral structure and fruity notes. (Try it!) Immediately afterwards, for comparison, I also had the 2013 Grüner Veltliner Reserve, Ried Bürsting from the same winery (along with a baked, incredibly tender and delicious veal tongue). This wine, too, was impressive, grown on 50-year-old vines with heavy clay soil, boasting multifaceted aromas, a powerful body, and intense spiciness. Personally, I much preferred the Grüner Veltliner Hermannschachern I tasted first, partly because I'm generally a big fan of light, fresh, and not overly spicy white wines, and also because my amuse-bouche harmonized better with it.

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The two Weinviertel wines from the Ebner-Ebenauer winery

Afterwards, I was served a glass of the skin-fermented 2013 Bernhardt – Gemischter Satz (from the Ingrid Groiss winery). A wine not only with a wonderful character and expressive tannin structure, but also with an interesting history. This wine is made from grapes grown in Mr. Bernhardt's small vineyard, planted in 1955 and handcrafted ever since. In 2013, the young winemaker Ingrid Groiss took over the vineyard. "Bernhardt – Gemischter Satz" is the result of the vineyard and Ingrid Groiss's loving care, as well as the pride and joy of Mr. Bernhardt, after whom the wine is named. This fine wine was perfectly complemented by my main course: roast ox shank with quark spaetzle, broad beans, and chanterelle mushrooms. Wonderfully tender and cooked to perfection, the meat was homemade, and the vegetables were beautifully crisp. A truly excellent main course that harmonized perfectly with the wine.

I highly recommend trying one or two wines from the Weinviertel region with your meal. In other words, order at least the three-course menu to a) experience the diverse flavors of Broeding and b) gain a better understanding of the variety of wines from the Weinviertel. Afterwards, I was served an Austrian wine as an extra treat with a small praline parfait topped with caramelized cocoa nibs (from Valrhona chocolate). This deliciously intense parfait wasn't just the final dessert, though—no, it was the dessert of the entire meal. The homemade nut cake was beautifully fluffy and pleasantly nutty, and even the mascarpone mousse was excellent, although I'm not usually a big mousse fan. A wonderful ending. (They also offer some fantastic sweet wines here—I was served one as an extra—it's best to ask what would pair well!)

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Bernhardt – a mixed blend from the Ingrid Groiss winery

Key facts and personal conclusion

In short: Everything about Broeding is perfect. The ambiance – which I haven't described in detail here (please just browse through the gallery), the incredibly warm and professional service, the food, of course, and the wine pairings. I didn't want to leave the restaurant and will definitely be back. You almost never need a reservation at Broeding. It's best to book on the day of your visit during the week and two weeks in advance for weekends (by phone at +49 89 16 42 38). They are open Monday to Saturday from 6:00 PM to midnight. Parking can be quite a challenge, so I recommend taking the bus, tram, or subway (U1 Rotkreuzplatz station), as it's only a two-minute walk to the restaurant. Card payments are accepted. The restaurant, which seats 50 people (at approximately 17 tables), also boasts a cozy terrace with space for about 28 more guests, where you can eat and drink until around 11:30 pm. Even though you'll likely not be served the same menu as I did (it changes daily), I highly recommend a visit. The variety, combined with the extensive wine selection, makes Broeding a truly special experience. My recommendation would be the Grüner Veltliner Hermannschachern (from the Ebner-Ebenauer winery) paired with one of the courses – you'll certainly receive personalized advice. I'd also like to reiterate that it doesn't matter at all whether you're a wine connoisseur or not – you'll be expertly guided through the evening.

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The dessert

Every first Wednesday of the month, there's also a purely vegetarian set menu, as well as regular "winemaker menus" where the roles are reversed: the wine is chosen, and the Broeding team prepares various courses to complement it (reservations are recommended!). Broeding also offers catering services and a wine shop. You can purchase wines from the restaurant that you particularly enjoyed, or bottles recommended by the knowledgeable staff. Gift vouchers are also available.

The selection of wines from the Weinviertel region at Broeding

In addition to the consistently extensive selection of wines, the following wines from the Weinviertel region are also available by the glass at Broeding in June. (You can still ask for these wines even after the end of June!):

1) 2014, Grüner Veltliner Hermannschachern, Weingut Ebner-Ebenauer from Poysdorf
2) 2012, Weissburgunder Alte Reben, Weingut Ebner-Ebenauer from Poysdorf
3) 2014, Grüner Veltliner Sauberg Tradition, Weingut 
Ingrid Groiss from Breitenwaida
4) 2013, Bernhardt – Gemischter Satz macerated, Ingrid Groiss Winery from Breitenwaida

Place visited: Broeding
Address: Schulstrasse 9, 80634 Munich
Website
Information about the Weinviertel region in your neighborhood





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