Gourmet Restaurant Kastell – Hotel Burg Wernberg – I recently told you about my stay at Hotel Burg Wernberg, including overnight stay, castle tour and breakfast (Read Part 1 „Hotel Burg Wernberg“Part of it was a visit to the gourmet restaurant "Kastell," located within the castle. Undoubtedly the personal highlight of my weekend. I want to take you along on this journey and share my culinary delights in the Upper Palatinate with you.
A look inside the restaurant before we start.
What can you expect at the gourmet restaurant „Kastell“?
This restaurant is sure to captivate even seasoned connoisseurs of fine cuisine, exquisite wines, and Michelin-starred restaurants. It's not just the location behind thick castle walls that impresses; the first impression upon entering is also surprising. Completely unlike the rest of the castle, the restaurant is predominantly white. A touch of purism, combined with a pleasing modernity and simplicity, characterizes this chic establishment. Aside from a large, imposing painting on the wall, a few floral arrangements, and subtle lanterns, little else is white or cream-colored. Add to that the striking architecture of the walls, the occasional discreet lighting, the impressive dormer ceilings, and the overall strong contrast to the rest of the castle. Once seated, guests are warmly greeted by the attentive staff and guided through the evening. A pleasant atmosphere immediately pervades the rooms, and the culinary delights begin.
Several set menus are offered, including the "Kellermann Menu" and a "Tasting Menu," which change approximately every three months. Before your meal, you'll be asked which menu you prefer and whether you'd like to rely on sommelier Frank Hildebrand's wine recommendations or select your own wines. Regardless of your wine knowledge, I always recommend consulting the sommelier at restaurants of a certain caliber. This isn't because I doubt your expertise, but rather because, for example, at Kastell, particular attention is paid to the harmonious interplay between food and drink—that is, the individual ingredients and the wine. Kastell doesn't offer an à la carte menu, but the kitchen team and sommelier are happy to accommodate personal preferences, dietary needs, intolerances, and allergies.
Course 5: Cauliflower soup with semolina dumplings and crispy pork belly
Thomas Kellermann's kitchen
If you've ever eaten at Kastell, you'll know why Thomas Kellermann is among the top 20 best chefs in Germany (!) and why the two Michelin stars he's earned are more than justified. So, what makes his cuisine so special? – Simply put: The ingredients are valued, skillfully combined without alteration, and presented in the form of creative courses and harmonious menus. Every ingredient is meticulously examined, its various aromas brought out, savored, and then combined with well-balanced components to create a delicious dish. Kellermann himself explains it better. I had the great honor of interviewing the Michelin-starred chef in person. Let me just say this upfront: Experiencing the creations of this Michelin-starred chef is truly a feast for the eyes, the palate, and the soul. Let's begin:
Visit to the fish farm of Andreas Rösch
Intriguing, isn't it? Thomas Kellermann already mentioned it in the interview: Andreas Rösch's char farm, which is partly responsible for the excellent fish served at the Kastell. I had the opportunity to visit the fish farm before my stay at the Kastell. So, into my wellies and off we went! Thomas Kellermann and hotel director Johannes Lehberger himself joined me on the tour. The fish farm is about a 40-minute drive from Wernberg, and even before the visit, it was clear: it would be windy and cold, but just as fascinating. The fish that Andreas Rösch raises in his fourth-generation family business aren't bothered by the weather. Far more important are the various factors that play a role in raising fish of this quality and in this "taste class." We learned on-site what makes a fish nearly perfect—that feed, water quality, handling of the animals, and much more all play a part. All these components significantly influence how the fish tastes on the plate. It only really hit me when I stood among countless tanks full of water, each containing up to 30,000 fish, asked my numerous questions, and gained a good overall impression of fish farming. (Thanks again to the friendly Rösch family for the tour, the fish, their time, and their knowledge!)
Of course, I was also interested in how the Kastell and Rösch's fish farm came together. It happened quite simply because Kellermann's search for the best fish in the region extended beyond the borders of Wernberg and ultimately ended in Bärnau. Since then, the char prepared and served at the Kastell has been sourced from there. The reason I didn't have char on my menu – more on that in a moment – is that it's deliberately given a "short break" from the menu from time to time; in other words, availability and the length of time it spends in the fish farm naturally play a role in the quality. Sustainability and the responsible use of resources are at least as important as quality and freshness when selecting ingredients. It's no different with fish.
A look at the plate: My menu
Back at the hotel and warmed up again, I was really looking forward to the Kastell. Of course, I had previously studied the menu, the ambiance, and everything I could find out about Thomas Kellermann. And yet: when the plate – starting with the amuse-bouche – lands in front of you, you understand in a completely unique and personal way what makes this place and this restaurant so special. Kellermann's dishes impress with their refinement, simplicity, and combinations that are mostly rarely, if ever, tasted before. It's best if you read through the menu I had the pleasure of enjoying there yourself. Do you notice anything? – No overly playful creations, excessively exotic components, or unnecessary "frills" that might overwhelm you without the necessary expertise. No, what truly delights is the interplay of two or three flavor profiles per course, skillfully coordinated and presented. See for yourself:
Amuse I Chicory with orange and coriander | Champagne: Champagne Laurent-Perrier La Cuvée Brut Amuse II – Fruity aubergine with pancetta and shellfish foam Gear 1 – Avocado roll with mackerel and yogurt snow | Wine: Riesling Schieferterrassen, 2015, dry, Weingut Heymann-Löwenstein Gear 2 – Langoustine with sweet potato, walnut and cucumber | Wine: Sauvignon Blanc, 2016, dry, QbA, Oliver Zeter winery Gear 3 – Greens & pike-perch with lightly smoked mashed potatoes and lettuce broth | Wine: Sainte Radegonde Blanc, 2015, Jean Faux – Bordeaux Gear 4 – Turbot with braised onions and red cabbage | Wine: Finca els Camps Macabeu, 2010, Jané Ventura Gear 5 Cauliflower soup with semolina dumplings and crispy pork belly | Wine: „Mullineux – Swartland Wine of Origin“ / Old Wines, 2014, Mullineux & Leeu Gear 6 – Upper Palatinate saddle of venison cooked in spiced broth | Wine: Abadia Retuerta – „Selecctión Especial“, 2013, Viñedos Propios, Sardon de Duero
(My favorite! A blend of Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah, aged in French and American oak barriques.) aisle7 – Pure pumpkin with pumpkin seed oil, butternut squash and Jägermeister granita | Wine: 2007 Spätlese, Graacher Himmelreich, Weingut Joh. Jos. Prüm
If you have any questions about individual courses or wines, please feel free to contact me. I will be happy to answer them or ask for you.
Hard facts and personal opinion
My stay at Hotel Burg Wernberg was one of the most culinarily enjoyable of the last few months. I also appreciated that some courses were prepared in front of the guest, for example, the soup was poured from the gravy boat over the dish at the table. In addition, the atmosphere is pleasant and relaxed, making you feel completely at ease. For any foodie, connoisseur, gourmet, or wine enthusiast, the trip is definitely worthwhile. Please don't even think about dropping by spontaneously. While both hotel guests and non-guests are welcome, you should always make a reservation in advance. The gourmet restaurant Kastell is open from Wednesday to Saturday from 7:00 pm, and on Sunday from 12:00 pm. The kitchen is closed on Mondays and Tuesdays, at least the Kastell's kitchen. You can view the menu online in advance.
In part 3 I will soon tell you about the Bacchinale 2017, what it's all about and what you can look forward to if you participate in 2018.
+++ This article was created in cooperation with Hotel Burg Wernberg. Thank you! +++
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Visit to the fish farm of Andreas Rösch
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