KAPSTADT 2016/2017 – Biancas Blog

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Pure sunshine on Cape Town beach

Cape Town restaurant tips for your holiday I recently returned from Cape Town. I spent Christmas there for the first time. Not that it was my first time spending Christmas abroad—no, I've been doing this for many years. Every year a different country, every year as far away as possible, sunny, and as "un-Christmassy" as possible. Inevitably, that sounds a bit like typical German Christmas blues, but it isn't. No, I simply use this time of year, when things are generally a bit quieter for most people, to discover and get to know new countries. This time it was Cape Town. I told some of my acquaintances, friends, and readers about my plans, and apart from "Oh, how beautiful South Africa is!" or "Cape Town, oh yes, I want to go there again sometime. Listen, I have a few tips for you," there was no other feedback.

No sooner said than done – in mid-December 2016, I was on a plane to Cape Town. A direct flight of just under 11.5 hours, which I actually managed to use for a nap on the way there. I landed, woke up, and went straight to my apartment. For me, the focus of the trip was clear: culinary delights, sunshine, and my own apartment near the beach in a central location – the good restaurants had to be close by, after all. Also a must – as I now know, especially in Cape Town – is a rental car. From mid/late December onwards, it gets really hot here, and anyone who enjoys driving with the top down, or for whom that represents a certain luxury on vacation, can certainly indulge in that kind of weather. (I wouldn't recommend leaving the car unlocked, though.)

One of many sandy beaches

Okay. Short shorts, sunscreen, car, and sunshine were all packed, so off I went. As mentioned, it was my first (but – as everyone says – not my last) trip to Cape Town. So I had loads of tips with me – both culinary and cultural.

What I noticed – and this is important to note upfront – at almost all the restaurants, regardless of whether they were "cheap" (more on that later) or more expensive, was the incredibly long wait times. Sometimes up to an hour, but then without a peep or even a "sorry" when the food was served. That's just how it is here. Equally important, and not just a well-meant tip, but a must: If you're coming during peak season, i.e., the Cape Town summer (mid-November to the end of January is usually packed), then you absolutely must (!) reserve tables at restaurants from Germany. "Oh, I'll just get a table!" usually won't get you very far at most places. So: invest 2-3 hours in preparation from home. Of course, you can always find something to eat, and sometimes I've even managed to get a table spontaneously, but at the latest with mid-range to high-end restaurants, spontaneity is no longer an option.

What's also pretty much universally true – and I'm sorry to say it – is that no matter where you eat, if you're relatively spoiled by good food from home or have been to many great restaurants in Munich, then nothing there will completely blow you away culinarily. I ate well, devoured fantastic fish and great steaks, yet the culinary "amazing experience" eluded me, even though I went to a wide variety of places. The good news is: you won't break the bank here, whether it's a steakhouse, a fancy restaurant, or a burger joint. My partner and I sat at a table with over 900 grams of meat in the form of beef tenderloin (over 350 grams) and rump steak (over 550 grams), an appetizer, and a side dish, and we only paid €60 – but that was by far the most expensive restaurant visit. On average, you can eat well and generously for under €10. Which brings us back to restaurants. Here are my tips:

RESTAURANT TIPS

nü

nü

1.: nü – Website – You absolutely must have breakfast there! Fresh muesli, smoothies and juices in countless varieties, superfood bowls, healthy wraps, protein flapjacks, omelets, salads, breakfasts, and gluten-free options await you. At nü, you get a very satisfying meal for a very fair price. For example, one morning I had the "The Health Nut Smoothie Bowl" (menu online) for 68 Rand (around €4.72) and was completely full until late afternoon. You absolutely have to go there. (Also order the "New-me" smoothie with blueberries, strawberries, raspberries, low-fat yogurt, and water for around €2.50). Wi-Fi is available, as are comfortable seats both inside and out.

Kapstadt Restauranttipp Frühstück Cafe Paradiso

Café Paradiso

2.: Café Paradiso – Website – Breakfast (menu online)! Until 12:00, they offer a manageable and varied breakfast menu; after that, only the main courses are available. However, it's best to stop by for breakfast. The most classic options are probably the omelette or scrambled egg with homemade hash browns. Fresh orange juice and a very generous "Classic Farmhouse Breakfast" with sausage, bacon, scrambled eggs, and more are also on the menu. The most expensive breakfast, "Classic Benedict with croissant, spinach, hollandaise sauce, bacon, or salmon," costs 85 Rand, or €5.90. Reservations are essential, and you should specify whether you want to sit inside or outside. My tip: "Truffled black mushroom" with spiced goat cheese on homemade bread (approximately €4.52).

Kapstadt Restauranttipps The Hudson Burger

Hudsons – The Burger Joint

3. Hudson's The Burger Joint – Website The burger joint is located about five meters from the nü (1st district). That's why I saw it was always packed. So if you want to eat good burgers, make a reservation in advance. I was lucky enough to snag a spot at a small bar overlooking the street. The menu features countless burger variations (see the menu online), as well as salads and pizzas. But you should definitely come here for the burgers. Whether with beef, chicken, or even ostrich meat, with mushrooms, chili, vegetables, double beef, or even without bread – the selection is extensive. The burgers come with either 180-gram or 250-gram meat portions. And here too: The price of, for example, "The Player" burger with 250 grams of beef, bacon, feta cheese, and avocado never exceeds 97 Rand (about €6.74). You can skip the sweet potato fries – they're a disappointment compared to Munich, but the burgers are all the better for it. My tip: The "The TriBeCa" selection, consisting of three small mini-burgers (80 grams of meat each) for €5.70. You can also order an "Ostrich Petty" (ostrich meat) here (blank, if you prefer).

The Foodbarn Deli

4. The Foodbarn Deli – Website – Really cool, really crowded, and loud! (Menu online). This deli is a must-see, whether for breakfast or a main course. Tables everywhere, an open kitchen, a small shop including a bakery, fresh cakes, pastries, juices, wine, chocolate, and tons of bookshelves to browse and buy. On my spontaneous visit, I was lucky and didn't end up on the "Waiting for Table" board on the wall, meaning I didn't have to wait in line with dozens of other people. Until 12:00, they serve healthy (or not so healthy) breakfasts, cakes, and snacks; from 12:00 onwards, they offer salads and a variety of main courses. While you wait, be sure to check out the small shop, pick up a cake for the afternoon, and buy some fresh bread. It's a really great location with small shops, cafes, and other businesses nearby. My tip: the "Granola" breakfast (€5.56) or, for example, the "Calamari Salad"—a huge portion for €6.81. Reservations are recommended.

Panama Jacks

5. Panama Jacks – Website You'll never find this restaurant spontaneously. It's so remote that you'll definitely think you're lost on the way there (only accessible by car). The harbor location lacks charm, and even upon entering the rather low-ceilinged, dark, and uninspiring restaurant, you won't be impressed. However, the freshly caught fish, the sushi, the appetizers, and everything else are all the more impressive. Reservations are a must, otherwise you won't get a table. My tip: a small sushi platter as a starter ("Dragon Roll" for €4.86) followed by, for example, tuna teppanyaki with vegetables (for €3.82!). I wouldn't have wanted to linger – but you'll hardly find fresher fish anywhere else. Tip: There's no need to tip; it's automatically added to the bill (10%).

Saxenburg Winery

6. Saxenburg Winery„ – Website Zebras and ostriches, an idyllic vineyard, a chic restaurant with a cozy terrace, and a great wine shop with free tastings await you here. I brought home three bottles of South African red wine from 2001 (4 liters are allowed on the plane!) and spent several hours there (also with the zebras ;-)). I ate a large beef steak (400 grams for €11.74) with a Coke Zero (a can for just under €1.40) on the terrace, and then went for the tasting. Access is through a locked gate with a barrier – this is common for many vineyards in Cape Town, by the way, so don't let it put you off. The service is a bit slow and attentive, but it's still worth it to taste the wine, eat, and – above all – enjoy the view.

Kapstadt Restauranttipps Hussin Burger Grill

Hussar Grill

7. Hussar Grill Camps Bay – Website A steakhouse, which is quite common in Cape Town. I was in Camps Bay and ordered a 300-gram fillet steak with mashed potatoes (for €12.43) and a 500-gram sirloin steak without sides (for €12.16). This steakhouse is supposedly THE place to go for a good steak. You should definitely make a reservation in the evening, otherwise you'll make the trip for nothing. (Lunch is also possible without a reservation). My meat – including the degree of doneness – was very good, just a bit too long on the grill (slightly burnt, but still within acceptable limits). Far from acceptable, and unacceptable, was the mushroom sauce I ordered, which had several hairs in it. I complained to the waitress, but she made no attempt to bring a new one or not charge me for it. That's Cape Town for you, a completely different concept of "service," without meaning any harm. The meat was fantastic and, right up to the end (considering the service on its own), the best I had during my entire vacation. Make a reservation, the menu is online.

The Butcher Shop & Grill

8. The Butcher Shop & Grill – Website I was given this tip as an alternative to Hussar Grill. The location is unbeatable and could easily be replicated in Munich. The two of us ate over 900 grams of meat, paying the equivalent of €60, including a meat appetizer and a side dish (a rather bland Caesar salad). The doneness of my beef fillet (medium well) was completely off; it was like shoe leather, making for a very unpleasant chewing experience. The rump steak, on the other hand, was grilled much better, and there was nothing to complain about. In terms of quality and service, there was nothing to criticize, but personally, I preferred Hussar Grill (which, by the way, also has a second location about 250 meters from The Butcher), despite the sauce mishap. Be sure to make a reservation here in the evening, otherwise you won't get a table. Look out for the cow above the bar – cool!

Osumo

9. OSUMO – Website No, this isn't a Japanese restaurant; it's the counterpart to nü (1.). Here you can also get healthy food, bowls, muesli, healthy snacks, and main courses. Although only about 150-200 meters away from nü, it was always quite empty, and the outdoor terrace was rarely occupied. The menu is online; I recommend the "Get up and Goji" (€3.33) for breakfast or the "Warm BBQ Chicken Stirfry" (€5.77) as a main course. Everything is very fresh, healthy, and filling. For smoothies, try the "Very Berry" or the "Strawberry Bliss," both 350 ml for €2.43. Taste-wise, I wouldn't single out either nü or Osumo. nü might have a slightly wider selection, while Osumo offers a very extensive breakfast menu.

Shift Coffeeshop

10. Shift Espresso Bar – Website "The best coffee in Cape Town!" proclaims this little coffee shop. And it might just be true, as it's run by an Italian from Naples, born and raised in Cape Town, who has coffee philosophy in his blood. Fresh cakes, sandwiches, teas, salads, main courses, and more are on the menu. Unlike back home, you can also have lunch here – despite its classic coffee shop appearance. Also worth mentioning, and quite unusual for Cape Town: free Wi-Fi for working and browsing the internet. But head to the beach instead; I left my laptop at home. For great coffee, definitely come here. The menu is online.

Kloof Street House

11. Kloof Street House – Website A truly beautiful and very inviting location. I was there on Christmas Eve. Admittedly, I was a little disappointed with the food, or rather, it was only moderately impressive. The menu consisted of mediocre appetizers, a "catch of the day" fish with truffled cauliflower purée, and a dessert which I skipped. A deposit of 500 Rand (just under €35) is charged to your credit card in advance for reservations (depending on the occasion), which is then deducted on-site. The location is fantastic, the garden cozy and inviting. However, if it gets windy, it becomes unbearable outside without blankets. Inside, it's stylish, with staff at the entrance, interesting architecture, and a welcoming atmosphere. The food was okay, but nothing groundbreaking. It was more the kind of fare I quickly forgot about, but it didn't leave a negative impression either. It's worth stopping by for a light snack, and definitely for the location itself. It was beautifully decorated for Christmas. The breaded, baked Camembert appetizer was, in my opinion, clearly from Aldi. 😉 Reservations are still mandatory, though; the menu is online.

La Petite Ferme

12. La Petite Ferme – Website – An absolutely picture-perfect location with a chic restaurant, views of vineyards and picturesque countryside. Dining is elegant and stylish, but reservations are absolutely essential in the evening. This is the place for you if you appreciate sophisticated and upscale dining at elegantly set tables. Even if you don't intend to eat there or can't get a table, the view and the property itself make the trip worthwhile. For example, if you arrive in the afternoon (the kitchen is only open in the evening), you can have a drink brought out to the garden and relax there for a while.

Groot Constantia Winery

13. Jonkershuis | Groot Constantia Winery – Website In my opinion, this is one of the most beautiful places I've ever visited. Vineyards as far as the eye can see, vast avenues, stunning architecture, and inviting restaurants and wineries. One restaurant is Jonkershuis, which unfortunately you can't try without a reservation. I wasn't lucky; I couldn't get through to anyone and couldn't get a table when I arrived. As soon as I'm back in Cape Town, I'll definitely stop by. Even if you don't have a table, you absolutely must visit Groot Constantia Wine Estate and enjoy the scenery. The menu is available online, and they offer breakfast, lunch, and, of course, plenty of wine, including tastings.

The old Biscuit Mill

14. The old Biscuit Mill – Website Every Saturday from 9:00 AM, you can feast to your heart's content in two huge halls. Similar to a food festival or street food market in Munich, they offer practically everything you can imagine. For an overview... Here's my video Directly from the market during my stay. An absolute must for every foodie. Don't eat anything before (and preferably after)! There's also a cool espresso shop there! Super cool place with friendly service.

Melissa's Mantra Café

15. Melissa's Mantra Cafe – Website I've been here three times. Once for a fruit shake, once for a carrot cake, and finally for a meal and a little shopping in the adjoining store. You'll be treated warmly, seated – even right by the window with a view of the roaring sea, if you wish – and can simply relax and enjoy yourself. The location, the service, and the food are all top-notch and delicious. Camps Bay was one of my favorite spots anyway, and if you're there, be sure to stop by the café and have a slice of cake with a smoothie or a cappuccino. Delicious! You can find the menu online. And on your way out, pick up some South African biscotti from the little shop.

Also recommended restaurants, but I didn't have time to go there or couldn't get a table….

1.: La Mouette Restaurant – Website
2. Winery and Restaurant: Delaire Graff Estate – Website
3.: The Test Kitchen (should be great!) – Website
4.: Kalky's Fish & Chips in Kalk Bay – Website A classic and very basic fish and chips shop with a queue longer than the one at Apple before the new iPhone launch. I didn't bother. 🙂
5.: Bread & Wine Vineyard Restaurant Moreson Wine Estate – Website
6.: Gin Bar in Wale Street – Website
7.: Charly's Bakery in Canterbury Street – Website
8.: Gold Restaurant – Website

You don't necessarily have to go to….

Rustica

1.: Rustica (simply) - Website This is an Italian restaurant, and to be honest, I only went there because I was out all day and practically nothing was open on Christmas Day. The staff—like almost everywhere else, by the way—are incredibly friendly and very attentive. My pizza with goat cheese and tomatoes (€6.18) arrived after 1.5 hours and tasted—no joke!—of absolutely nothing. With every slice, I waited for the flavor to hit my mouth—no such luck. Perhaps you should order steak or fish here, but you can put those on the back burner for now. (Reservations weren't necessary.) (The catch of the day with a side dish, for example, was sea bream with potatoes for €8.65 during my visit.)

Allora

2.: Allora Franschhoek (simply) - Website Don't get me wrong: You absolutely must go to Franschhoek, just not to Allora. It's an Italian restaurant on par with Vapiano. Not bad, but not a must-visit. I was running late, hungry, wandering up and down the restaurant street, unable to decide. I ended up here. The menu (online) also includes meat and fish dishes, as is typical in Cape Town; I probably would have been better off with those. I opted for tuna and pasta (€10.42 and €7.23 for penne with mushroom sauce, respectively). The village itself is very charming and worth a visit (only by car, as is usually the case). But you're better off eating at a different restaurant along the street.

The Bungalow

3.: The Bungalow (formal) – Website My friend who recommended this place will probably rip my head off for categorizing it as "Quite nice, but not a must-visit," but I didn't really feel comfortable here. It's a chic, hip, super trendy place, and part of a loud—really very loud—and crowded crowd. You sit either in the huge "bungalow" or under a kind of tent, which is covered with tarpaulins to block the otherwise sensational view of the sea. Of course, the view is clear during the day, but it gets chilly quickly after sunset. The food was okay; the burrata was unfortunately bland, the main courses were served incorrectly and after more than 50 minutes, and the taste was about on par with "mid-range Munich fare." Not bad, not good. As mentioned, the clientele is rather chic, somewhere between P1 and Bar Lehel, but the service is disorganized, slow, and tries too hard. Without a reservation—no way! The location itself is nice, right on the sea, and worth the trip for anyone who likes a chic atmosphere. But bring patience, high heels, and a polo shirt. 😉

V&A Waterfront – Food Mall

4.: V&A Waterfront – Website This is a shopping and food hall. It has everything that has absolutely nothing to do with Cape Town. I was there and bought macarons and Italian cheese twice because I had such a craving. Upstairs, you'll find Thai shops, spice stores, Indian stalls, juice stands, a conveyor belt sushi restaurant, and a coffee shop. It's always quite crowded, loud, and not exactly a pleasant atmosphere for eating. The macarons (15 Rand each – just under €1) are delicious, though (about on par with the ones at MAELU in Munich). They also have Asian dishes, chocolate, wraps, Indian samosas, and other food. If you're looking for small gifts, this is still a good place to go.

Non-culinary tips:

Boulders Beach – Penguins

Cape of Good Hope

You absolutely must go to Boulders Beach to see the penguin colonies. There's a visitor center there where you pay 70 Rand per person for entry. Just walk past it and continue straight ahead – you'll see the penguins there too (and for free).
Don't book a fancy hotel, book an Airbnb instead. It's much more fun, you'll have more space for yourself, and you'll also meet nice locals. I'm happy to share my contact information.
You'll even get help parking in 10-meter gaps. 😉 Feel free to tip the friendly helpers a few euros here and there – they'll appreciate it and it won't cost you anything.
– If you go on a safari, be prepared that day trips will offer little of a true safari experience. You'll see all the Big Five (for example) within a 2.5 to 3 hour tour in a safari jeep.

Aquila Safari Tour

Sea lions in Kalk Bay

If you want to do that, then it's best to book here. The location is great, and it takes about 2.5 hours to get there from Cape Town city center to experience Chita, lions, rhinos, and other animals with a safari tour guide.
– Drive to Kalk Bay harbor and look for sea lions. I saw a few, both swimming freely and, of course, as a tourist attraction.
– Definitely go to the Cape of Good Hope. It's worth it, and you can have your picture taken at the southwesternmost point of South Africa.

Don't miss the wineries, even if you're not big wine fans. The scenery and views are absolutely beautiful.
It can (unfortunately) be very windy. And then it's really cold. Never go out without a sweater. Believe me. 😉
– I didn't eat the best fruit of my life in Cape Town (mangoes in India, bananas in Hawaii, etc.), but what I did every single day was go to the supermarket (e.g., Woolworths) and buy mangoes and watermelon (already cut up in boxes). A pure vitamin boost!

Have a wonderful holiday in Cape Town. I'm sure that you – like me – will want to come back again after your holiday.

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