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M-TH – Müller Thurgau from the Artur Steinmann winery

Principal – Franconian Autumn Do you remember my presentation of the 14 Munich restaurants in connection with the "Weinviertel in Your Neighborhood" campaign? Yes? One of them was the Prinzipal restaurant in Bogenhausen, which belongs to the Prinzregententheater. I ate there very well even back then (Restaurant reviewThe restaurant is currently offering a very special promotion until October 29, 2016: "Franconian Autumn," featuring a wonderful selection of wines and Franconian cuisine. I visited the restaurant, sampled the food and drinks, and chatted again with the owner and wine expert, Thomas Riedel. Now I want to tell you more about it.

What can you expect at „Prinzipal – Franconian Autumn“?

Under the motto "Franconian Autumn," the Prinzipal restaurant presents Franconian specialties and delicacies. These are perfectly complemented by excellent wines from the Franconian wine region, which boasts over 6,500 hectares of vineyards. You can look forward to truly excellent cuisine and superb wines. For those who aren't yet familiar with the region, Thomas Riedel is happy to offer recommendations – both for dishes and wines.

Food and wine selection

Let's start with the wines. For the "Franconian Autumn" event, Mr. Riedel has selected three Franconian wineries. Two to three different wines from each winery will be offered. The first three items on the menu are from the Artur Steinmann winery in Sommerhausen (Maindreieck). This is a family-run winery managed by Artur Steinmann, co-founder of "Frank und Frei" and head of the Franconian Winegrowers' Association. (Frank und Frei is a winegrowers' association of 14 different winemakers who have been strongly committed to the quality and identity of Franconian wines in recent years.)

Secco Saignée rosé from the Steinmann winery

Those wishing to try wines from the Steinmann winery can choose between a sparkling and dry, fruity Frizzante "Secco Saignée rosé" (0.1l – €4 | 0.75l – €28), a 2015 Müller-Thurgau "M-TH" – an ideal food pairing wine with a light, fruity character and aromas of citrus, green apple, and pineapple (0.2l – €5.10 | 0.75l – €18), and a 2015 Steinmann rosé. Lively and fruity, with aromas of red berries and light acidity, available for €5.10 in a 0.2l bottle or €18 in a 0.75l bottle.

Next up are two organic wines from the Manfred Rothe organic winery in Nordheim (Maininsel), who are also the house and estate winemakers of the Prinzipal restaurant for Franconian wines. He is considered one of the best organic winemakers in Franconia and is presenting a 2015 Silvaner "Bio" (0.1l - €3.10 | 0.75l - €23) and a 2013 red Cuvée "Bio" made from Regent and Zweigelt grapes with pronounced red berry fruit, soft tannins and light acidity (0.1l - €3.10 | 0.75l - €23).

Prinzipal - fraenkischer Herbst Grauer Burgunder

Pinot Gris from the Scheuring winery

The selection concludes with three wines from the Ilonka Scheuring winery in Margetshöchheim (Würzburg). This small family-run business cultivates 11 hectares of vineyards, producing sustainable and excellent wines, such as the aromatic 2015 Scheurebe – dry with fresh acidity and powerful aromas of ripe grapes (0.1l – €3.10 | 0.75l – €23). The second wine is the 2015 Pinot Gris. An elegant and full-bodied white wine with low acidity and a long finish – deservedly the top wine on the menu (0.1l – €3.90 | 0.75l – €28). Finally, Ilonka Scheuring offers a rosé Federweißer (new wine), available by the glass (0.2l) for €3.50.

You might notice that no glass of wine costs more than €5. Good quality wine at fair prices, then. The same applies to the dishes. Restaurateur Thomas Riedel took his time to ensure the menu was a success, capturing the essence of Franconian cuisine while still appealing to everyone's taste. The result: a fantastic menu with 14 different items, divided into appetizers, intermediate courses, main courses, and desserts, with prices ranging from €6 (a portion of lard from the Lamm butcher shop in Geiselwind) to a maximum of €18.50 for the pike-perch with a black pudding crust, beetroot rolls, arugula, and pine nut vinaigrette. Let me tell you a little more about the menu based on what my companion and I ordered.

Prinzipal - fraenkischer Herbst Graupenrisotto

pearl barley risotto

Selection and evaluation of the dishes

More precisely, a fantastic "tasting menu" was put together for the two of us. This allowed us to get to know the "Prinzipal – Franconian Autumn" theme even better. So, just a heads-up: all the portions you see were prepared in smaller versions for us by the wonderful chef – you'll get more, but you certainly won't be eating eight courses. 😉 Even though it might spoil the surprise a bit, I want to mention before going into the details that I've rarely eaten such a personalized and exquisite meal at such fair prices. Top quality, fresh ingredients, dishes perfectly paired with the wines, and a menu that was a complete success. Everything I'm about to show you can be ordered again with complete confidence.

Sour sausages in vinegar brine with fresh bread

It started with a smoked trout fillet (from the Princely Castell Estate) on creamed potatoes with onion crackers (€12.50). As a liquid starter, we had still water and a glass of "Secco Saignée rosé" from the Steinmann winery. Course number two, accompanied by organic Silvaner (Rothe winery), consisted of thin slices of pink veal loin with truffle mayonnaise, capers, and a herb salad (€13.50). After these wonderful and pleasantly light starters, we were served a crayfish foam soup with pickled cherry tomatoes and a glass of 2015 rosé (also from the Steinmann winery) (€8). The soup, as course number three, was my absolute favorite so far, especially in combination with the fruity and rustic Silvaner. My companion was eager to try the "Saure Zipfel" (sour sausages), so we had the slender Franconian sausage – here cooked in a vinegar broth (€8) – as course number four, served in a small soup pot with fresh bread. Delicious, though a new taste for me, the "Saure Zipfel" were a real treat. From a wine perspective, my clear favorite arrived with course number five: the 2015 Pinot Gris from the Scheuring winery. An exciting wine that I can only recommend – if you can still get your hands on a bottle, as I wasn't the only one who loved it. We tasted it with a pearl barley risotto that was absolutely divine. It was accompanied by tomatoes, shaved cheese, lettuce hearts, and marinated herbs (€12.50). The next course – number six – consisted of the aforementioned pike-perch with a black pudding crust and a complimentary glass of dry 2008 Silvaner from the Castell winery. (This wine should delight any Franconian wine enthusiast, and I highly recommend asking for it. An authentic and dry Silvaner cuvée, produced by wine academics, combining 800 years of winemaking tradition with modern winemaking training. Thomas Riedel offers this special wine.) Admittedly, I was already a bit full ;-), but I didn't miss the seventh and final course (before dessert). Despite its simplicity, it made my heart beat faster once again. There was Franconian bratwurst (from Lamm butcher shop in Geiselwind) with Silvaner sauerkraut and diced potatoes (normally two for €13.50). It was delicious, I tell you, and in this case, even without wine, a truly delightful treat. And finally – as you know – my motto: there's always room for more! 😉 In this case, the trio of apples (€7.50) with an "Old Apple" brandy from Manfred Rothe.

Crayfish foam soup

Eight courses, plenty of wine, diverse flavors, and countless culinary impressions. After a while, my companion and I got up from the table and said our goodbyes. Even before we had completely left the building, I said to her, "We'll definitely be back. That was absolutely fantastic!" And indeed, as mentioned above, I have rarely eaten so well at such fair prices and in such generous portions. As I said, you mustn't forget that, firstly, no one would likely be able to manage eight courses in regular portion sizes, so even with, for example, a four-course tasting menu, you would probably be under €50. Thumbs up!

Prinzipal - fraenkischer Herbst Kalbsruecken

Slices of pink veal loin

Service and ambience

The service was – as on my last visit – top-notch. Empty plates were cleared promptly, we were asked each time if we enjoyed our meal, and nothing was missing from the table. The bread was fresh, made that day (unfortunately, this is becoming increasingly rare in Munich restaurants), and everything was perfect. "Prinzipal – Franconian Autumn" made me very happy, and I highly recommend you stop by. The restaurant's ambiance speaks for itself. Elegant, chic, yet cozy, you dine in a comfortable hall with soaring ceilings, a bar in the back, and numerous tables already beautifully set.

Hard facts and personal information

The conclusion is clear: I'll be back. When are you coming by? The restaurant is always open two hours before the performance starts. Definitely reserve a table, as most theatergoers eat here beforehand, along with other guests. It's well worth a visit. Personally, after my visit, I felt much closer to Franconia. But be quick, the "Prinzipal – Franconian Autumn" event only runs until October 29, 2016.

Place visited: Principal
Occasion: „Principal – Franconian Autumn“
Address: Prinzregentenstraße 12, 80538 Munich
Website

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