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Weinviertel in your neighborhood 2017 – Since June 1st, Weinviertel in Your Neighborhood has been touring Munich again this year. For those interested in getting started and reading my first review (Weinviertel in Your Neighborhood 2017 & Test 1: Neo-Brasserie HoizAnyone who missed the first one can read about it here. Now it was time for test number two, at another of the 16 participating restaurants: this time I went to "Zum Goldenen Kalb" (The Golden Calf). A steakhouse with a well-deserved reputation. My focus during my visit was on the Weinviertel wines, but of course I also had a bite to eat. But read on for yourselves…

Zum goldenen Kalb Steakhouse Weinviertel in Deinem Viertel

The Grüner Veltliner „Horizont“ from the Zillinger winery

My second test: To the golden calf

The "Weinviertel in Your Neighborhood" 2017 event features some restaurants from last year, as well as new partners joining the initiative this year. Zum goldenen Kalb is a newcomer when it comes to Weinviertel wines, but a top dog for good steaks in Munich. Their extensive regular wine list doesn't include any Weinviertel wines outside of June, but it does offer around 170 other bottled wines. They always have five red wines and four white wines available by the glass, as well as specialty wines on an irregular basis. I was really looking forward to trying Zum goldenen Kalb.

The Weinviertel wines at Zum goldenen Kalb

After a first impression and a brief tour of the steakhouse/restaurant, I was shown to my table. On this occasion, I was dining alone at Zum goldenen Kalb. The food and drink menu, including the wine list, was already waiting for me at my table for two. Naturally, I chose a wine from the Weinviertel region, of which the following are also available in June:

1.) 2016 White Burgundy „from marl“, Wolfgang Seher Winery
2.) 2012 „Red October“, Wolfgang Seher Winery
3.) 2014 Grüner Veltliner „Horizont“, Herbert Zillinger Winery (organic wine)

Beef tartare with homemade chips and crème fraîche

I was already familiar with the wines offered by Weingut Seher – a winery with approximately 14 hectares of vineyards and an annual production of 70,000 bottles (Grüner Veltliner, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Blanc, Yellow Muscat, Zweigelt, Pinot Noir, Barbera, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon) – from previous restaurant visits. So, wanting to try something new at Zum goldenen Kalb, I opted for the organic wine from Weingut Zillinger – a Grüner Veltliner ("Horizont") from 2014. To accompany it, I ordered – no, not a piece of meat from the aging cabinet – but a freshly prepared steak tartare. I recently said it, and I'll gladly say it again: in my opinion, a steak tartare is a good indicator of whether a restaurant, or in this case Zum goldenen Kalb, has what it takes or not. It took less than five minutes before my still water, my basket with two different types of bread (from Gourmet Express in Unterschleißheim), along with olive oil and high-quality salt (which every guest receives), were on my table.

Time to focus on the wine in my glass. The Zillinger "Horizont," with its intense spiciness, is a classic example of Grüner Veltliner. A hint of pepper, beautifully dry, with ripe stone fruit notes and a surprisingly light flavor. As it turned out, the ideal accompaniment to my beef tartare—which I found to be very spicy, by the way, made with Australian beef—served with homemade potato chips and crème fraîche (for €16.50), and which was served to me just a few minutes later. The motto is always to taste first, then add more seasoning if necessary. In this case, no need, as it was perfectly seasoned, and in my opinion, clearly at the upper limit. A little more crème fraîche would have been nice, but the chips were perfect and not at all salty – the perfect complement to the tartare itself. For me, the Weinviertel wine was the ideal accompaniment to the meal, and even after I'd finished the tartare – I was a bit disappointed with the portion size, so I was quite full despite my big appetite – I happily enjoyed another glass. (0.1l for €5.80 / bottle for €35).

So if you'd like to visit Zum goldenen Kalb, June would be the perfect time to do so. Ideally, you'd enjoy it with a glass of Grüner Veltliner or a glass of "Roter Oktober" (80% Zweigelt, 19% Merlot, 1% Pinot Noir – ideal with dark, well-seasoned, and lean meats | 0.1l glass for €6.50 / bottle for €38), or perhaps the "vom Mergel" white Burgundy from Weingut Seher (2016) – a perfect match for asparagus, salads, or fish (0.1l glass for €5.60 / bottle for €34).

The aging cabinet is located in the back of the restaurant.

Zum goldenen Kalben – Das Restaurant

The restaurant has been around for seven years. We've already discussed the wines from the Weinviertel region. As mentioned, the rest of the wine list comprises nearly 170 selections. These include wines from Italy, France, Austria, Germany, Spain, and a few from Argentina, Portugal, the USA, and South Africa. The menu is concise, with a clear focus on meat and steaks. The centerpiece of Zum Goldenen Kalb is undoubtedly the spacious aging cabinet, where meat of varying sizes, quantities, and from diverse countries and regions matures for two to twelve weeks at 1-2 degrees Celsius. Every guest who chooses meat at Zum Goldenen Kalb – although alternatives are also available – is first escorted to the aging cabinet by the knowledgeable staff and is welcome to ask any questions they may have. They are happy to answer questions about the origin of the meat, the key factors in its quality, what makes a good cut of meat, and which cuts are recommended based on individual tastes.

Your chosen meat will be prepared here…

Once you've made your choice and taken a seat at one of the pre-set tables with white tablecloths, all that's left to do is wait and relax. The restaurant is very cozy, radiating a pleasant warmth with its brick walls, floor-to-ceiling windows, subtle lighting, and dark furniture, including a bar. During my visit, I observed that every guest was indeed shown to the dry-aging cabinet and given ample time to learn about the products. Given the rather substantial prices, I think this is essential. The quality, as confirmed by feedback from many readers, is impeccable, and there's no shortage of variety. Eight different appetizers (oysters, marinated salmon, sea bass, beef tartare, lamb curry, etc.) are available starting at €8.50, as well as a selection of dry-aged steaks, burgers, and ribs, all with a choice of sides and sauces. Those who can't decide on the aforementioned aging cabinet but would like to try one of the 48 different types of meat (on a rotating basis) can, for example, order the US Angus Prime Ribeye Steak (approx. 330 grams, €54.50) or the Australian Angus Prime Filet Steak (approx. 200 grams, €48.50). A variety of side dishes is also available, with potato gratin, sweet potato mash, green beans with bacon, creamed corn, cauliflower, and more starting at €4.50. Six different sauces are also offered (starting at €3). For a sweet finish, Zum goldenen Kalb offers crème brûlée, sorbet, tart, or warm chocolate cake with Emilo coffee (starting at €3.50).

The restaurant changes its menu, as the focus is on meat and steak, only about once or twice a year; that is, the side dishes change. However, there's also a handwritten menu with additional dishes on the wall, which changes more frequently. Zum goldenen Kalb is also ideal for sunny days, perhaps simply enjoying a glass of wine on the sunny terrace (for up to 50 people). Inside, there's seating for 85 guests. I'll definitely be back in June to enjoy a glass or two of Weinviertel wine with a steak – this time with a companion. Have you been there?

A pleasant atmosphere for a glass of wine and a steak

Weinviertel in your neighborhood 2017 – Here's how it works!

Everywhere in town you see an orange deck chair outside – there are 16 in total – you can enjoy Weinviertel wines by the glass, starting June 1st. If you prefer to visit specific restaurants and don't want to look for chairs, simply check the... Website from Weinviertel in your neighborhood 2017 and finds all participating restaurants there.

Many Munich wine merchants are also participating again this year, offering a wide range of great wines for your home – in case you can't get enough of a particular wine in a restaurant (Dealer listDuring the event, wines from the Weinviertel DAC region – the authentic, peppery, spicy, and delicately fruity Grüner Veltliner – as well as Pinot Blanc, Muscat, Frühroter Veltliner, and sparkling wine from local producers will be served. Wines of diverse styles and excellent value for money will be available, offering something to suit every palate.

If you missed the promotion last year, you can find all the reviews, wines and restaurants from Weinviertel in your neighborhood 2016 Here. The Weinviertel, Austria's largest wine-growing region, doesn't ring a bell yet? No problem, and all the more reason to discover the wines and the Weinviertel region, to get to know them. You don't even have to go to Austria in June; you can choose between the aforementioned 16 restaurants.

Facts and data

To the golden calf
Address: Utzschneiderstraße 1, 80469 Munich
Opening hours: Open daily from 5:00 PM to 11:00 PM, Friday and Saturday from 12:00 PM.
Website; Reservations: Possible spontaneously at lunchtime, always a few days in advance on weekends, 1-2 days in advance during the week

Wineries of the Weinviertel region in your neighborhood 2017 wines in Hoiz:
1.) 2016 White Burgundy „from marl“ and 2012 „Red October“ – Seher Winery
2.) 2014 Grüner Veltliner „Horizont“ – Zillinger Winery

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