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PEPENERO RISTORANTE – Schwabing, Glockenbach, Lehel

Pepenero Ristorante

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Pepenero Ristorante A while ago, after some wandering around, my companion and I ended up having dinner at Pepenero in Schwabing. (Currently (May 2016), this restaurant is undergoing renovations, and only the two other locations in Glockenbach and Lehel are open.) So, relatively spontaneously and without a reservation, we found ourselves in the very crowded and therefore quite noisy Italian restaurant near Münchner Freiheit. The menus were already laid out on the tables in the form of paper placemats, the tables were sometimes less than 10 cm apart, and it was almost impossible to leave your table without accidentally clearing the table next to you with your jacket, backside, or handbag, or at least disturbing your neighbors. Initially, it was manageable, but then it became increasingly crowded, and groups of four people pushed together were split into two-person tables, making it even more cramped.

Let me say this upfront: If you're looking for affordable Italian food, you've come to the right place, or rather, all three locations offer excellent service. It's hard to find a cheaper place to eat in Munich. (…or where else can you pay a final price starting with a two after just two main courses?) The prices are by no means in line with the quality of the food. So, for a small price, you get good Italian food. Certainly not Michelin-starred cuisine, but that's not what Pepenero aims for. Rather, they want to offer good, Italian food to the many Munich residents at fair prices. This has worked so well that Pepenero Ristorante now also has locations in Lehel and Glockenbach, meaning you can enjoy pizzas, pasta, and more at different locations.



We entered and a friendly server behind the bar immediately noticed us, came forward from the long, white bar, and served us. There are also tables directly in front of the bar. The server was very attentive and tried hard to find us a table, and after a short wait, we were seated relatively far forward in the very long, narrow restaurant. Unfortunately, it was nearly impossible to have a conversation at a normal volume. We had only been seated for about 30 seconds when we were asked if we knew what we wanted to order. By the time we knew, the server had come by twice more: once to bring bread and once for vinegar and oil – a bit annoying. Of course, there's no need to linger when there's a crowd of people waiting for a table, but I still want to be able to sit back, choose, and eat in a relaxed manner.

The restaurant is furnished with dark tables, subdued lighting, no candles or decorative elements on the tables – the tables are too small, the whole place is too cramped, the entrance door is constantly opening and closing, and there were almost always five to eight people standing in the entrance area waiting for a table. In other words, it's common knowledge that at Pepenero you can always expect guests to get up and leave soon.

Okay. We turned our attention to the printed menu (DIN A3 format), which features a variety of pizzas, pasta dishes, several salads, antipasti, and extras (such as Wiener Schnitzel, calamari, risotto, etc.). The prices are absolutely reasonable. While Pepenero is clearly designed to serve as many guests as possible in a relatively short time, it strikes a good balance. The atmosphere is quite hectic, so you don't really want to linger longer than necessary. The most expensive pizza (Prosciutto di Parma e Rucola) costs €9.95. A Margherita, Salami, or Prosciutto pizza is just €5.95 or €6.95, respectively. Pasta dishes range from €4.45 to €9.95. Overall, you'll find a wide selection here if you're in the mood for pasta or pizza. Salads offered are the typical Italian classics – goat cheese, figs, avocado or similar creations are not available here.

Only after ordering a simple arugula and tomato salad with Parmesan (€4.95) did I notice that many other dishes were advertised on chalkboards around me in the bar area and the back of the restaurant. For example, there was a truffled potato soup, which I ordered afterward for (at the time) €4. Several pizza options were also displayed. I would have appreciated a separate daily specials menu so I wouldn't have to look at all the walls to find something I liked. So, if you go there: take a good look around. My companion opted for a Pizza Diabolo (€8.95). It tasted fine, had a thin crust, a good level of spiciness, and was quite filling. My potato soup smelled and tasted very strongly of truffles, but was a bit too thin for my taste and far from the best truffle soup I've ever had. The simple salad I ordered was okay for under €5. I mixed the dressing myself.

All in all, you definitely can't say that Pepenero is a bad restaurant. It's more simple and, at least in my opinion, a bit geared towards volume. The selection is decent, the service is friendly, and the prices are very fair – especially considering the central location. I haven't personally tried the Lehel or Glockenbach locations yet, but I've often walked past the branches with the black sign and green lettering. I can recommend a visit if you're looking for something simple, a bit noisy, and a little more crowded. Currently (May 2016), they're renovating the Schwabing location – who knows what to expect. Since there was nothing to complain about with the food (except for the soup), I would definitely come back. Friends of mine were there recently (in Glockenbach) and left very satisfied.

During our visit, we paid €22.50 including tip (at the time) after about 30-45 minutes (so the imposed concept of "come quickly, eat quickly, leave quickly!" definitely works...). Certainly almost unbeatable for a soup, a pizza, a glass of wine (Lugana 0.1l – not exactly a masterpiece, but drinkable), a fruit tea, and a salad in Munich. The restaurant's biggest drawback is its lack of coziness. The focus of your visit should definitely be on getting full without any fuss.

Card payments are accepted. Reservations can only be made by phone, and if you really don't want to wait, I would recommend making a reservation in advance. Apparently, it's a bit quieter and more comfortable to eat in the back area – my companion needed to use the restroom and only noticed it on the way there. The restaurant as a whole would certainly feel less uncomfortable if it weren't so crowded and (for example, at lunchtime or in the early evening) a bit less busy.

I'll be back: Yes, after the renovation. I'm still going to try the Pepenero restaurants in Glockenbach and Lehel.

Place visited: Pepenero Ristorante
Address: Feilitzschstraße 23, 80802 Munich
Website

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