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The cooking legend Marc Haeberlin | Süddeutsche Zeitung Gourmet Edition – Not often, but every now and then, I like to feature books on my website that I find inspiring and that I believe are worth having on your bookshelf. The world is becoming increasingly digital, and over time, the internet, along with blogs and apps, seems to be replacing the classic cookbook more and more. So, it has to be something special to take the "step back" to the "tactile world of cookbooks." One newly released book that's worth buying in print is the one from Tre Torri Verlag as part of the... Süddeutsche Zeitung Gourmet Edition The newly released book, "The Culinary Legend Marc Haeberlin," was published to mark the 50th anniversary of the three Michelin stars at the French restaurant Auberge de l'Ill. The book not only fits perfectly into the existing works of the Gourmet Edition (e.g., "„What is Germany?„, „abc – The Kitchen Bible“ or also „School of Taste„), but also forms the expanding work of „The legendary chef Hans Haas“ within the Gourmet Edition.

Die Kochlegende Marc Haeberlin Buchvorstellung 1

The book cover „The Culinary Legend Marc Haeberlin“

Strong, expressive images for every recipe

The book „The Culinary Legend Marc Haeberlin“ – a first look

„To our grandchildren, the 6th generation Gabin, Paul, Philippe and Thadeus.“ (To our grandchildren, the 6th generation, Gabin, Paul, Philippe and Thadeus.) is written in Haeberlin’s handwriting on the first page, beneath the book title, before the four double-page spreads of colorful illustrations, some of which feature excerpts from Haeberlin’s 3-Michelin-starred restaurant “Auberge de l’Ill„ in France. Then, on the next page, a saying that amused me and simultaneously gave me pause for thought: “Preserving traditions and still becoming a legend.“ This is followed by an introductory description from the Tre Torri publishing house, which not only recounts Marc Haeberlin’s 50-year success story but also discusses the German culinary renaissance and the influence of Alsatian cuisine in Germany. It should also be noted that the book contains 35 collected classic recipes, each presented – accompanied by a short essay – exactly as they would be served to a guest at the "Auberge de l'Ill". The essays further highlight the distinctive character of Haeberlin's cuisine, which has been shaped over the years, explaining the individual dishes, the choice of ingredients, and their connection to Alsatian tradition.

In summary, the cookbook "The Culinary Legend Marc Haeberlin" focuses less on the "how" and much more on the "why." I also appreciate that after the table of contents and the comprehensive introduction (pages 16-19), the book doesn't immediately jump to the recipes, but instead begins with a detailed and engaging interview with Marc Haeberlin (pages 20-33). There, the Michelin-starred chef discusses his career and family, offering insights into his way of thinking and his intentions.

The table of contents itself subdivides the recipes (from page 34 onwards) into "Appetizers," "Dishes with Fish, Frog Legs, and Crustaceans," "Dishes with Meat, Poultry, Offal, and Game," "Desserts," and "Basic Recipes." Each recipe is accompanied by a double-page spread with an appealing color photograph, followed by a clearly structured list of ingredients, the preparation steps, and the aforementioned essays. As a fitting conclusion to the book, further double-page spreads featuring images of the restaurant, dishes, team members, and stylistic elements of the culinary experience follow the recipes.

Die Kochlegende Marc Haeberlin Buchvorstellung 4

„"Vegetable plate with meringue" – Recipe No. 1

The recipes

There are 35 recipes in total, only a few of which are explicitly vegetarian, much like the menus and courses at Haeberlin's three-Michelin-starred restaurant. The recipes selected for the book are not only all visually appealing, but despite their respective sophistication, they are all achievable with the necessary culinary skill. It begins, for example, with an "Assiette Végetale," a vegetable platter featuring beetroot leaves, salad jelly, seasonal vegetables, and meringue. Among the eleven appetizers (pages 34-90), in addition to the aforementioned vegetable platter, are dishes such as "Asparagus in puff pastry with fresh morels and Vin Jaune sauce," "L'Auberge de L'Ill tin of sardines with caviar," "Two preparations of salmon with a crispy poached egg," and "Lobster Thermidor with a small croque-monsieur." From page 96 to 152, the focus shifts to the sea, or rather, the water, with recipes like "Brown Crab with Citrus Fruits on Crab Jelly," "Kulebjak of Pike-Perch and Salmon," and "Illhaeusern Fish Stew in the Style of Aunt Henriette" described step by step and ingredient by ingredient. Those who prefer meat on their plate will certainly find something to their liking in the Poultry, Offal, and Game category (pages 158-198). Recipes such as "Pan-Fried Sweetbreads with Parmesan Ravioli and Black Garlic Emulsion," "Lightly Lacquered Pork Loin with Orange-Scented Veal Jus," and "Buckwheat-Breaded Venison Fillet with Fromage Blanc and Kasknepfle" are just some of the options. The six varied dessert recipes (pages 202–228), along with the basic recipes that follow (vegetable/poultry/fish/shellfish stock; white wine sauce, Périgord sauce, etc.), conclude the book. Personally, I would choose the "Lemon Tart, Reinterpreted" or the "Soufflé Perfumed with Bergamot," but step-by-step instructions are also given for "Paris-Brest Cream Puffs" and "Meringue with Red Fruits and Rhubarb.".

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Engaging essays to accompany each recipe

Working with the book and the recipes

It does take a little practice to get to grips with the recipes, but on the other hand, the individual steps are clear and described in such a way that you really do everything in the order required by the respective recipe. All too often, I find that recipes—even in digital form—require steps like "...then fold in the cream that has soaked in overnight..." are listed fifth, without any prior mention of this necessary step. Not so here. Despite sometimes using ingredients that are a bit hard to find, Haeberlin's recipes are clearly written and a joy to cook. I also appreciate that you can take individual components from the recipes and recreate them. This is partly due to the well-organized breakdown of the ingredient lists and steps, which are further subdivided into individual components. (For example, if the whole thing is still a bit too much for you, be sure to try the zucchini rolls with ricotta-zucchini cream and the zucchini blossom chips from the recipe "Fried langoustines with ricotta ravioli, tomato confit and lemon emulsion".) Of course, everything is coordinated, harmonizes and "belongs together", but with this book in particular, I enjoyed experimenting a little, picking up individual elements and trying them out.

Personal opinion and conclusion

A book well worth buying. Especially for kitchen and cooking enthusiasts who enjoy good food and working with high-quality ingredients, this book should be a valuable addition. While "The Culinary Legend Marc Haeberlin" certainly benefits from its appealing food photography, in my opinion, its strength lies even more in the variety of recipes and the vibrant atmosphere brought to life by the accompanying essays. Having now thoroughly explored the book and its contents, I can wholeheartedly recommend it to you and discover a little more of the world of gourmet cuisine. This book is unique, engaging, and a real pleasure to read.

Have fun!

Bibliographic data:

Book presentation by: The cooking legend Marc Haeberlin
Publishing house: Tre Torri
Editor: Süddeutsche Zeitung Edition
Key facts: Hardcover with numerous photos, interview and recipes, portrait format, 248 pages, €39.90
Sample text (scroll down a little after clicking)

You can buy the book „The culinary legend Marc Haeberlin“ directly from Tre Torri Verlag.

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